Our ship has come in…

Francis and I took a walk down to the harbour today, we heard from our travel agent that our expedition ship, the “Antarctic Dream” would be arriving this morning and would be in the harbour. It was VERY exciting to see the “Antarctic Dream” docked there, she is not a very big ship, but that is part of the reason that the companies use these ships, for their smaller size and maneuverability. It was quite an amazing feeling to see her there. We also bumped into an Australian guy walking back from the harbour, he had just got off the “Antarctic Dream” and said that it was an absolutely amazing trip. He didn’t want to give us to much detail as he said he didnt want to spoil it for us, but he said that it will be a trip we will never forget.

So, we board the ship at 4pm tomorrow afternoon (8th Feb) and will return on the 18th Feb in the morning sometime, weather permitting. We wont have any internet access while on the ship, so technically we will be “off the radar” for 11 days. We are so excited, we really cant wait and we know it will be a huge adventure, naturally posts and pics will go up when we return….

See you on the other side!

Ushuaia – Antarctica’s waiting room

Ushuaia has been our home for the last few days. We have had to stay longer than expected because of our trip to Antarctica. In the process we have been really just relaxing and as a result, both Francis and I have been a bit sick with a cough and a sore throat, basically a head cold. The weather here hasn’t been helping much either, in the morning, you can go out and it will be sunny and warmish (Ushuaia never really gets very warm, it is a sub polar climate…) and within 20 minutes, the clouds descend over the mountains and it will be drizzling a fine icy rain. When the clouds lift, you notice that there is more snow on the mountains and then the wind blows off the snowy mountains into the city, can be a bit nippy then…Having said all that, Ushuaia is set in a beautiful setting. The city is down on the harbour and once you go three streets up you begin to climb some steep stairs as the mountains are literally just out of town, they are huge and beautiful and can be seen from anywhere in the city. So, this has been our home for the past few days and will be until the 8th Feb (only 4 days away) when we leave for the White Continent.

Ushuaia Harbour

Two nights ago the clouds lifted for a few hours and Ushuaia revealed her true beauty, so I quickly put on my camera backpack and went out and caught some of the last light of the evening. It was fun and I had a photography buddy with me. We met a Canadian couple in El Calafate called Paul and Sandra and they were coming down to Ushuaia too, so we got here before them and we booked some place in the hostel we were staying for them. Paul is a keen photographer and shoots weddings in Canada and was very keen to get some shots too. So, the light looked good and Paul and I went out and captured some of it.

From the boardwalk

The images you see in this post are the ones done on that evening, the big ship you see in the harbour is a cruise ship, the ship we will be going to Antarctica on will be smaller than that and we are going on an expedition trip. The cruise ships go down to Antarctica too, but they generally don’t to landings i.e. they don’t take the passengers onto the actual continent. Expedition ships do anything up to 3 landings a day and because they are smaller, they can fit into tighter spaces than the big cruise ships. So we are off soon, the countdown is on!!

Harbour Scene

Creative shot of the sunset at the end of the world!

We did it! We are off to Antarctica…

Ok, we took the plunge and booked our tickets today to Antarctica. We are booked to leave Ushuaia and head for Antarctica on the 8th Feb 2010 and will visit the White Continent for 11 days. We got a really good deal (relatively speaking, its very expensive to go to Antarctica) and decided to take it. So, we are in Ushuaia for the next 11 days and then we are off to Antarctica for 11 days. We are really excited and nervous at the same time. The first real extreme condition we will face is Drake Passage, which is one of the most treacherous sea passages in the world, the swells can be very rough and it takes 2 and a half days to get through. If the weather is good in Antarctica, we will be doing 2 to 3 landings in a day, that means we get off the ship and go exploring on zodiacs (rubber ducks) and go onto the actual land and visit penguin rookeries, walk on the ice packed land and look at sea lions etc. So, we are really excited and are looking forward to the adventure….The image below is an image off our expedition company’s website of the actual ship we will be on, to see more about them, click here.

Land of the Ice Giants

Panoramic of Perito Moreno

El Calafate is home to the National Park of the glaciers. Located just 80km out of El Calafate, this park is home to 47 glaciers, but only  3 of them are accessible, either by boat or land. The most famous of these glaciers is the Perito Moreno glacier. We were driven up there by bus and went into the park. When we arrived, it was raining, so we couldn’t get onto the mountainside to see the glacier, but when we did, we could not believe our eyes. This may sound contrived, but the sight of that glacier was the most amazing and spectacular natural phenomenon I have ever seen.

Full length of Perito Moreno

Perito Moreno - HDR shot

Francis as we enter the walkway to Perito Moreno

Big Blue

The Perito Moreno glacier is 30 km long and in total is 250km square of ice and rock. The front face of the glacier is 5km long and on average it is 74m tall (above the water) To say that it is majestic is a gross understatement, this glacier is nothing short of breathtaking. Firstly, when you stand in front of it, you realise that it is not static, it groans and creaks, sometimes it sounds like rolling thunder as it heaves forward. The glacier is constantly moving, but it is not noticeable, but you can hear it. Every now and then you hear a loud crack, similar to a gunshot, as it moves…occasionally pieces of ice from the front wall will fall off, this is called calving. Calving happens on a regular basis, but it is totally unpredictable, so you will be looking in one direction and hear shouts from the other direction, you swing around quickly and will see only the last pieces as they fall into the water below. It is spectacular to see it, there is a sharp crack, a deep rumble and then a roar as a piece of ice, the size of a few small houses, comes crashing into the water. I managed to catch one calving, you can see the pic with the 3 shots of it happening.We spent a few hours just looking at the glacier and it was mesmerizing, it was as if you couldn’t stop looking.

Perito Moreno Calving

The next day we went on a boat trip to see Glacier Spegazzini and Glacier Upsala and then to see Perito Moreno, from the water level. This too was completely amazing. We came up close to an iceberg in Lake Argentino, there are plenty of them floating around, and lots of amazing sights to see.

Up close with an Iceberg in Lake Argentino

Francis view the iceberg

Up close to the Blue Giant

The Blue Giant, from a distance...

Glaciers Spegazzini’s front wall is over 100m tall above the water, but not as wide as Perito Moreno, but still impressive. We could not get close to the front wall of Upsala Glacier. In recent time, because of the increasing temperatures, Upsala is calving much more often and when it calves, the whole front wall comes off. This is now happening once ever 20 days or so, therefore the bay in front of it is packed with icebergs and pieces of ice. This debris is 3km long, so the closest we could get to Upsala was 3km away.

Glacier Spegazinni - full front wall

By far, the trip to the glaciers was the highlight of our trip so far, these Ice Giants are something quite spectacular and no photo can do them justice, to see, hear and almost feel them is what makes a visit to them so worthwhile…a once in a lifetime experience.

Chacra Millalen – Organic farm

Sunset at Millalen

So, let me be honest, the idea of working on an organic farm for 2 weeks wasnt necessarily high on my list. There were a few things that concerned me, one was, the lack of meat on the menu for that time. Other than that, I wasnt overly concerned. By the end of our time there, it was really quite special to have spent so much time in such a beautiful place. Yes it was a farm, a working organic farm, and we learned so much. Our day basically went as follows:

07:30 – Wake up

08:00 Breakfast – consisting of homemade bread, Jam, Oatmeal and Te Negro (Black tea)

09:00 Work assignments handed out and that could range from weeding the beds in the veggie garden (a large veggie garden) to picking raspberries, cleaning certain areas, making adobe bricks etc etc

09:10 – 13:00 Work!

13:00 Lunch – always a hot cooked meal which could comprise of lentils, potatoe bake, veggie stew, millet casserole and so on, sometime with rice and other accompaniments

14:00 – 16:00 – Siesta time, literally

16:00 – 20:00 Work

20:30 – Dinner time

230:00 Bed Time

Raspberry pickings

Peas picked by Francis

Pickings for the last half hour

We were only working half day on the farm, so generally after lunch we had time off, so we relaxed, read our books, typed up blogs, edited photos etc.

The farm, as I said, is a working farm and so it generates income off the produce. A lot of the fruit is made into jams or preserves and sold in the local town up the road called El Bolson. The nearest town is El Hoyo, but it really is very small, so not much of a market there. Most of the tourists end up in El Bolson and that is where a lot of the produce is sold. The veggies and fruit really is very good and very fresh and of course all natural, so no chemicals or pesticides have been used in growing the produce.

We were on the farm with about 10 other volunteers, 5 of them were from the USA andthe rest were from France. This made for many interesting chats as the French group could not speak much English apart from one of the girls, Lena, who was actually very fluent, more fluent than she let us know. Then the USA group, all girls, were mostly out of college and travelling for the next few months before they returned to the US.

We had a lot of fun and laughter, two of the French guys were highly talented musicians, Nico was a really good guitarist, so good that he could listen to a song one or two times and begin to pluck it out on a guitar. Antoine made music with just about anything, he turned pots into drums, PVC pipes into Didgeridoos and he had a mouth organ which he played with great aplomb. It was really amazing to be sitting around after dinner listening to an informal jam session that they would strike up…

The scenery at Chacra Millalen really stole the show. The farm is surrounded by beautiful rugged peaks that seem to push up effortlessly from the valley. In the distance are snow capped mountains and just beyond that the border with Chile. The valley is green and lush and is home to a lot of cherry, raspberry and strawberry farming, so it really is a great place to have a farm. Also, there are plenty of horses in the area, we would be walking down the country road and two horses, by themselves, would amble by along the road…really rural, but very very pretty.

Chacra Millalen Snowfall

Chacra Millalen Snowfall

Mountain at Millalen

The owners of the farm we also such lovely people, Fabio (who didnt speak any English unfortunately) had a lovely open and smily face and was always joking and making people laugh, Josephine who is fluent in English, Swiss, German, French and Spanish is always in control of what is happening in her garden. Every afternoon, she would walk through the garden with her clipoard and make notes of what needs to be done next.

Overall we had a great time at the farm, and learnt a lot about how things get done on an organic farm, a good experience and as always, great new friendships were made..

The cooking team of that evening

My sweetie in her gum boots

Hmmm, nice gum boots

Some images from Chacra Millalen

We had a really good time at Chacra Millalen. The setting was absolutely beautiful, we were surrounded on three sides by some amazing mountains each of which was 2km high or taller. On our first night there, snow fell on the mountains overnight, so here are some of the images I captured on the days after that.

Chacra Millalen Snowfall

Chacra Millalen Snowfall

Mountain at Millalen

Sunset at Millalen

We are in El Calafate

Ok, we have emerged after 10 days on an organic farm and are now in El Calafate. El Calafate is home to some 47 Glaciers and we are hoping to see at least 2 of them, possibly 3…. Tomorrow I will post the blog on our time on the farm, Chacra Millalen and probably soon after that I will be putting up some posts about El Calafate and of course the Glaciers. We are now really far South, take a look at my google map to see how far down we are…http://lightimage.wordpress.com/travel-map/

Please be patient…we have..no access

We have been working on a farm in El Hoyo for the past week and they don’t have any internet access on the farm for us to use. So, today we came into the town of El Bolson (15 Jan) to book our bus tickets to Calafate and check emails etc. We are leaving El Hoyo on the 21 Jan 10 and will probably only be back online by the 23rd. The bus trip to Calafate is 26 hours and once we are there we will be online again. We are doing well, working in the sun and roughing it a bit, to see where we are staying, check out the farms blog (mostly in Spanish , some English) http://www.chacramillalen.blogspot.com

Will post as soon as possible!

Dylan, Cheri, Ridder and Amelia

Francis and I were walking down one of the main roads in Bariloche, Looking for  bank when we saw a woman and her young son, battling the wind. As we got closer, she greeted us in Spanish at first and then she saw we were not Argentinean and she spoke to us in English. We chatted a bit and found out that her and her husband Dylan are missionaries from the USA doing evangelism work in Bariloche for the next 5 months. We chatted to Cheri for a while and then met Dylan who was on the other side of the road handing out evangelism material. Cheri asked us if we would like to join them for lunch which we did and pretty soon we ended up back at their place in one of the suburbs in Bariloche. We chatted for ages and actually had to make a concerted effort to leave or we would have probably all night. We left after we had chatted about so many things it was a really good time for all of us. We also swopped email addresses with them and they live in Bend, Oregon, so we will probably be able to see them too when we are in Canada, quite amazing. Again, we felt really excited because we had just met more people that we knew we would remain friends with. If you are interested to see more about what they do, please visit their blog at: http://www.harrisfamilyargentina.blogspot.com

Walter, Deborah and Mateo

We met Walter, Deborah and Mateo in a coffee shop in Bariloche. They then invited us to dinner at their holiday place just down the road (well, 10 minutes by bus) We arrived and were greeted by Walters sister and her partner Damien. Damien was cooking for us, Pollo con Jamon et queso (Chicken with ham and cheese) He was actually Cuban and was part of a Cuban Salsa band so later in the evening he entertained us with some singing and music…he was good. We had an amazing time with Walter and Deborah, it was amazing how instantly we felt that we had made new friends and how very warm and welcome we felt from Walters family. We are so excited to see them again in Seattle or Canada, if they come to visit us. For Francis and I, this is what travel is about, meeting people and forging new friendships